Contents:
* Important principles
* Do not overuse the crate
* Uses for crates
* Crates can be used for mature dogs as well as puppies
* Choosing a crate
* Where to set up the crate
* How to make a crate a safe, comfortable and happy place
* Introducing your dog to a crate
* Teach your dog to "go to your crate" (or "room" or "place")
* When you depart...when you return home
* Whining, barking and howling in the crate
* If your dog continues to whine, bark or howl in the crate
* More tips for converting crate-hating
* More tips
* Using crates as housetraining aids
* Housetraining hints in conjunction with crate-training
* Accidents in the crate
* More words of wisdom
* Alternatives to using a crate
* Other resources
Many pups and even adult dogs benefit from crate training during
the first weeks in their new home. If you properly train your new
canine family member to use a crate, your dog will think of the
crate as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when
necessary. It will take knowledge and patience on your part to help
your dog adjust, but the benefits make the effort worthwhile.
The cost of a new crate can range from approximately $40 to $200.
This investment pales in comparison to the cost of chewed up shoes
and furnishings, not to mention the value of a having a safe haven
for your canine family member.
Important principles:
* A crate is a management and training aid, not a substitute for
teaching your dog acceptable behavior. It is also no substitute for
teaching family members and visitors how to interact properly and
safely with a dog.
* A crate is not a jail cell, not if you are using this tool
correctly and humanely. Confinement need not be unpleasant. Keep in
mind that we confine our babies and young children for their safety
and security.
* Humane and responsible confinement is helpful in the process of
guiding the development of good behavior and habits, and preventing
the development of undesirable and risky behavior. That's why it's
important to confine your new pup at times when you are not around
to supervise him. Once undesirable habits form, they are hard to
eliminate.
* The type and size of the crate should be geared to your
individual dog. One crate does not fit all.
* The crate should be set up as a safe, comfortable sanctuary in
an area of the home in which the sights, sounds and smells of family
activity are present. A family room is appropriate. A dark and/or
cold basement is not. Tight on space? Some folks place the crate, or
kennel, beneath a kitchen, dining room or other table, creating a
tidy sanctuary for the dog. And some folks have placed a tabletop on
top of a crate to create more table space.
* If you're going to use a crate, introduce the dog to the crate
on the first day the dog joins the household.
* Dogs like retreating to a cozy, secure den. In fact, puppies
who are allowed to roam freely when alone tend to become anxious.
That's why some get destructive; physical action such as chewing
shoes and scratching up floors and walls gives the pup an outlet for
her tense, anxious feelings.
* By using a crate, you can support the development of positive
behaviors.
* However, crating is not a cure for separation anxiety. It can
be part of a behavior modification program, but crating is not a
stand-alone solution. In fact, for some dogs suffering from severe
separation anxiety, many canine experts do not recommend use of the
crate. If your dog suffers from true separation anxiety, gather
information on this syndrome and be sure to consult a professional
canine behaviorist. The longer you delay getting professional help,
the worse the problem, and your dog's anxiety, will become.
* Keep the crate clean. If your pup messes in the crate, change
the bedding immediately. You don't want her to being so accustomed
to sitting in or near urine, fecal or other matter that she thinks
that's part of everyday life. That's no way to teach a dog to "hold
it".
* Never use the crate for punishment. You want your pup or dog to
have only positive associations with the crate. You do not want your
dog to associate fear and anxiety with the crate. You can use the
crate as a time-out spot, but keep the crate encounters positive.
Do not overuse the crate:
* Do not commit the sin of over-use. Limit time in the crate to
only 3 to 4 hours for puppies and 8 hours maximum for mature dogs.
In fact, some canine experts advise that 6 hours is the longest that
canines can reasonably endure in a crate each day. There is a limit
to how long canines can control their bladders and bowels. And even
though you should strive to make the crate a truly safe,
comfortable, pleasant den, it still isolates the dog from the family
and environmental stimuli. Without sufficient daily exposure to
people and environmental stimuli, and without sufficient daily
exercise, your dog will suffer mentally and physically, and this
will have an adverse effect on temperament and behavior.
* You need to teach your dog how to behave properly in the house,
and interact properly with people and other companion animals in the
home. Your goal is to gradually reduce time the dog spends in the
crate and increase the freedom of movement in the home. You do not
have to give your dog total access, but the dog should be able to
spend time in some parts of the home.
* The effects of excessive use of the crate include environmental
deprivation, anxiety, hyper behavior (due to lack of exercise and
limited movement) and socialization problems, since dogs truly need
interaction with people and exposure to a variety of stimulation
(people, places, other animals, experiences) to become a good,
stable, well-mannered companion.
Uses for crates:
People use crates to:
* Aid in housetraining. Crating takes advantage of the canine
instinct not to soil where one sleeps.
* Protect the pup or dog when strangers or multiple visitors come
into the house.
* Provide a puppy-proofed, safe haven for young dogs when the
people are out.
* Provide a secure, quiet environment for a dog recovering from
an injury, medical treatment, surgery or any unusual or traumatic
experience.
* Keep a newly adopted pup or dog from getting into trouble when
you cannot supervise him. In a crate, the dog cannot chew on
off-limits items or get ahold of something that can lead to injury
or illness.
* Keeping your new pup or dog by your bed at night, close enough
so that you know when she might have to be taken outside to relieve
herself, but confined sufficiently so that she can't wander off to
relieve herself in the house or get into trouble.
* Transport dogs safely in cars, planes and other vehicles.
* Create a home away from home when traveling and staying in
hotels or with friends. Your hosts will probably feel more
comfortable having your dog as a guest if you bring and use a crate,
particularly for those times that you go out without your animal
companion. In the crate, your dog will have considerably less
opportunity to chew up your host's possessions...and wear out the
welcome mat. (Be sure to push the crate far out of reach of
bedspreads, chair cushions and anything else an anxious dog might
try to pull into his crate.)
* Again, remember what a crate is not: it's not a pet sitter,
it's not a long-term solution, and it's not a substitute for proper
training and management of your dog.
Crates can be used for mature dogs as well as puppies:
Crates can be useful for housetraining and safeguarding a mature
dog who has newly joined the household.
Even adult dogs can feel more secure in crates or a single room
than with freedom to roam throughout a house. In the dog's view, it
can be a relief to have a smaller domain to watch over in his
person's absence.
Choosing a crate:
* Select a crate that is large enough for your dog to turn around
and stretch out comfortably. If you have bought a larger crate
because your puppy will grow larger, use a divider to confine him to
one portion of the crate until housebroken.
* Crates come many styles. Plastic crates, such as those designed
for airplane use, limit visibility -- which can be a positive or a
negative, depending on the dog. For most dogs, wire crates are
recommended. Be aware that the wire used comes in different gauges
and quality; some dogs who try to escape crates require heavy duty
wire. However, by properly introducing a dog to a crate, and
allowing him to acclimate to this den environment, you can help ward
off the development of crate anxiety.
Some metal wire crates are collapsible, which can be especially
convenient if you travel with your dog. The sizes vary from pup- and
toy breed size to super-size.
* Crates can be purchased in pet supply stores, by mail order and
over the internet.
Where to set up the crate:
* Keep the crate in a highly accessible room, and leave the crate
door open, so that the dog can enter and exit the crate when he
wishes. Many people leave their crates set up even after they are
done housetraining the dog so that the dog has a "room of his own"
at all times.
* Keep the crate in a in a room in which family activity takes
place. Not only is this a good idea for socialization reasons, but
also, the dog will be more inclined to stay in, and stay quietly in,
a room that you're frequently in. Dogs typically want to be near
their people. Don't banish the dog to the basement. Place the crate
in a spot in which the dog can observe family activity, but not in
the path of traffic.
* Make sure the crate is not positioned near noisy spaces and
that the dog will not be exposed to drafts, direct heat or cold
airflow. Make sure the room is not hot or cold.
* Some people keep an additional crate in their bedroom in which
the dog can sleep until they have taught the dog good house manners
and can trust the dog to stay put in his own open bed. You can keep
the crate door open unless you have a young pup prone to roaming or
having accidents.
How to make a crate a safe, comfortable and happy place:
You want to make the crate a den that is attractive, comfortable
and comforting for your dog.
Some items to place in the crate:
* A comfortable mat or bed or a couple of thick, comfy towels
lining the entire bottom of the crate. Choose washable material.
* Toys. Safe, mentally stimulating toys include various types of
Kong toys, which can also be stuffed with some foods and treats to
occupy the dog when you're leaving the house. Chew toys are good
unless your dog can bite off pieces, turning the toy or treat into a
choke hazard. You can limit the crate toy to one or two, but
consider rotating new toys into the mix to entertain and mentally
stimulate your dog.
* Water. For most dogs, it is recommended to leave a bowl of
water in the crate, particularly if the dog is spending more than an
hour or two in the crate. You can use a bowl that rests in a metal
holder that you can screw onto the wires of the crate. You can also
attach a water dispenser to the crate and fill it with ice water.
* Some people remove collar and tags to prevent possible
entanglement and strangulation. However, it may be enough to simply
make sure the entire bottom of the crate is covered by good padding
(and crate pan/liner) and to make sure the collar is not loose and
thus prone to getting caught on things. Snug but loose enough to
easily insert two to three of your fingers is a good rule of thumb
for fitting collars.
Introducing your dog to a crate:
Too many people start by forcing the new pup or dog into the
crate, locking the door and leaving. No wonder many dogs hate
crates. Doing it right simply requires some patience, common sense,
empathy -- and a good, positive attitude. Don't expect overnight
success, since crate training can take a few days or even a few
weeks. Factors include the dog's age, temperament and any previous
experiences with being confined.
* First, introduce the dog to the crate on the first day the dog
joins the household. You want to create the impression that the
crate is where good things happen.
* Secure the crate door so that it can't swing open or closed,
which could scare your dog and create negative associations with the
crate.
* Sit by the crate and toss small treats near the crate. Once the
dog begins approaching the crate, toss treats into the crate. At
first, the pup or dog will probably respond cautiously, exiting the
crate immediately after fetching the treat. Do not force the dog
into the crate.
Eventually the pup will stay inside the crate for a longer time
and anticipate receiving a treat. Some dogs respond as well or
better to a favorite toy or ball instead of treats. Make sure to
reward this behavior. Be aware that this step of the crate training
process can take 15 minutes or a day or a even a few days, depending
on the individual dog and any past experiences he has had with
confinement.
* As your pup gets more comfortable inside the crate, close the
crate door briefly. Then gradually increase the length of time you
keep the crate door shut.
* Staying close by when you begin crate training is important
because to help your dog acclimate to the crate, you need to give
him verbal praise (such as ?good dog!') and a tasty edible tidbit as
soon as he settles down and/or stops any whining or barking. Clicker
training can also be used to facilitate crate training.
* Stay in the room at first, then eventually begin leaving for a
few seconds, gradually increasing your time out of the room. Then
leave the house. Over time, the dog will learn that the crate is a
pleasant and safe place.
Working up gradually is important. Each time you crate your dog
at the beginning, try carefully not to exceed the time your dog can
quietly stay in the crate. This approach helps avoid setbacks.
* A crate training exercise: keep your dog in the crate for about
ten minutes. Do not praise him immediately after release, or else
you could unintentionally reinforce the idea that the crate is a bad
place to be. After 30 minutes have passed, repeat the exercise. Help
your dog extend his calm time in the crate to 30 minutes. Gradually
extend the duration of time you are absent so that you can
eventually leave the dog alone in the crate for several hours.
* A common mistake: crating the pup or dog only when you're away
from the house. During the initial crate training period, be sure to
place your dog in the crate for short periods (of varying duration)
when you are at home. Make it a point to spend time in the room in
which the crate is located during some of the times you randomly
tell your dog to go into the crate. That way, you'll avoid creating
the association of "crate equals my person deserting me."
* Teach your dog a new command: "Go to your crate." This is
covered in detail in the next section.
* Eventually, practice with leaving your dog in the crate as you
spend a few minutes engaged in activities in another room. Return
and sit near the crate. Calmly praise him from time to time. Let him
out of the crate, put him back in, let him out again. Gradually add
minutes to these little exercises, working up to an hour, so that
your dog learns that staying quietly in his crate is part of
everyday life.
* Reminder: although you can leave the crate set up as a haven
for the dog's use after the housetraining period ends, you should
plan on crating as a temporary training measure. Your goal should be
to wean your pup or dog from the crate so that he has some freedom
to roam when you're away. There are some exceptions, such as in
multi-dog households in which two of the dogs do not get along, or
if you foster dogs as a volunteer. However, it is usually better to
establish separate rooms in these cases so that your own dogs will
eventually have some additional freedom of movement once they are
housetrained.
* Particularly for puppies, establish a routine using the crate
for nap times and whenever the puppy must be left alone for a few
hours. Again, avoid overcrating. A young pup might not be able to
stay calmly in a crate for more than two hours, since pups must
urinate frequently. And mature dogs also can suffer socialization
setbacks and be adversely affected by overcrating; six hours really
is a long time to be confined in such close quarters.
* After releasing your dog from the crate, quietly put on her
leash and take her outside for a walk, or to her potty spot in your
yard, then praise her for eliminating and being a good dog.
* Many trainers suggest to start off on the right paw by making
the crate "the place where all good things happen." From the start,
feed the pup or newly adopted dog in the crate, feed her her treats
and favorite toy or chew treat in the crate. See the next section
for details about teaching dogs to feel comfortable eating in the
crate. Make the crate super-comfortable. Praise the dog every time
she enters the crate. These tricks will help the dog quickly learn
that the crate is a great place.
Teach your dog to "go to your crate" (or "room" or "place"):
Teach your dog a new command: "Go to your crate." As with other
commands, it's effective to start off with the dog's name to get her
attention. (You should teach her that her name means, effectively,
"pay attention"). You can use the word "room" or "place" instead of
"crate", but whichever name you choose, be consistent so that your
dog learns what you mean. To help lure your dog to, and then into,
the crate, place small, tasty treats or a favorite toy by, and then
inside of, the crate as you give the verbal command to "go into your
crate". As soon as she approaches and enters the crate, reward your
dog for listening with enthusiastic verbal praise in addition to the
treat. You can also click with the clicker if you are clicker
training, when she comes.
As you progress in this exercise, start closing the crate door.
Stay near the crate and engage in an everyday activity such as
reading the paper, making a to-do list, cleaning or preparing a
meal. At first, or if the dog is anxious, keep your activity to
something quiet such as reading.
Remember, you need to teach your dog this command before
expecting her to know how to obey it. Too often, people assume their
dogs somehow instinctively "know" what they are talking about, when
in reality a dog depends on his person to teach him good and
specific behaviors.
Turn learning into a game. At random times, place a treat in the
crate and tell your dog "find the treat". If necessary, guide your
dog to the crate; pretty soon, she will know to check out the crate
during hide and seek games. Also at random times, you can leave a
treat in the crate and let your dog simply find it on her own. These
practices reinforce the idea that good things happen in the crate. A
note of caution: randomly leaving treats in the new dog's crate may
not be a good idea if you have more than one pet.
When you depart...when you return home:
* Another common mistake is to hurry the dog into the crate and
then rush off to work. But doing this guarantees that your dog will
associate the crate with "my favorite person disappears." Instead,
tell your dog to go to her crate approximately 15 minutes before you
leave for work. And make sure you have given your dog sufficient
exercise and the opportunity to fully relieve herself before
confining her in the crate.
* You can vary the pre-departure time in the crate from 10 to 20
minutes. Keep your departure routine very low key, and change it
around a bit so that your dog does not get so tuned into the cues
(such as, "I hear him picking up his keys; now he's going to
disappear and leave me alone!").
* Keep all departures calm and low-key. You can quietly praise
the dog, and even give her a treat, but refrain from emotional or
dramatic goodbyes.
* Upon coming home, ignore your dog for a few minutes after you
enter your home. Be sure not to reward anxious or hyper behavior,
even with negative attention (which is still attention). Instead,
wait 10 or so minutes, then, when your dog is settled down, praise
her and open the crate door. Take her outside for a walk or to her
potty spot.
* Remember to sometimes put your dog in the crate for short
periods when you are home, so that she does not associate going in
the crate only with you going out the door and leaving her alone.
Whining, barking and howling in the crate?
It is common for a pup or dog not accustomed to a crate to whine,
bark or howl in an attempt to persuade his person to release him. A
well-exercised dog who has been properly introduced to the properly
sized and outfitted crate will typically give up after a half-dozen
or so attempts to get your attention.
So, do not give in. Keep the dog in the crate or she will learn
that she can convince you to release her by making noise. The only
exception is if there is a chance that the dog does have to relieve
herself. In that case, take her outside to her potty place right
away. Then return her to her crate.
If your dog continues to whine, bark or howl in the crate:
Make sure you have introduced the dog properly to the crate. So
many people fail to do this. It pays to start over, following the
crate training tips in this tip sheet as well as the detailed
guidance in the books and web pages listed at the end of this guide.
There are various approaches for responding to a dog who protests
being crated:
* The most recommended, effective approach is to ignore the vocal
protests.
* The exception: if there is a chance your pup or dog has to
relieve himself. In that case, take him right outside, give him the
chance to eliminate, praise for eliminating, and gently but firmly
instruct him to reenter the crate. Make sure you limit the outing to
strictly letting the dog do his business; don't let the pup persuade
you to turn the outing into playtime.
Here is one way to see if a dog really has to eliminate. First,
teach your dog a phrase or command that connotes with going to the
bathroom, such as "potty". Then, for those times your dog expresses
anxiety or restlessness in the crate that might be signs of needing
to relieve himself, say the phrase ("potty?") and observe careful.
If his response indicates that, yes, he might have to relieve
himself, take him right outdoors and limit the outing to just
pottying.
* If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several
minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to
eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside.
This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time.
* Ignoring usually works, though not always immediately, since
any type of acknowledgment of the dog -- talking, eye contact, touch
-- is usually construed by the dog as attention. Usually, if the
behavior is just ignored, instead of rewarded, it will stop...since
dogs, like people, have a natural instinct to "do what works".
* The protest behavior may get worse before it gets better. But
it will usually taper off and stop all together. That is simple
behavior modification, notes trainer Cinimon Clark. If a behavior is
not rewarded, it will not continue. There will be no reason for the
dog to engage in the behavior if he gets nothing out of it.
* Another approach: you can employ clicker training techniques.
When the dog is quiet, click and treat. When the dog is noisy, leave
the room and shut the door. This is a positive reinforcement
approach.
* Some folks have success using a squirt bottle, though many
canine behavior experts recommend using such aversive approaches.
When the dog is noisy in the crate, quietly squirt the dog without
looking or saying anything. Then quietly shut the door and walk
away. If using an aversive technique, you would respond the same
way, such as by squirting, every time the dog made noise, since
consistency is key to training.
* Another aversive approach: giving a correction in a loud and/or
firm voice. Or knocking on the side of the crate in a manner that
startles the pup, interrupting his barking. When using this
approach, the goal is to have the dog associate his barking, whining
behavior with the loud noise...so that he comes to realize that to
avoid the loud noise, he should quiet down. Realize that a truly
anxious or scared dog probably will not be able to make the
association. Again, it is critical for you to properly, gradually
and humanely introduce your dog to his crate, so that he learns that
it is a place of security, not a place of anxiety and not a lonely,
boring place devoid of environmental/mental stimulation.
* Cinimon's overriding philosophy is to find behaviors to praise,
instead of focusing on the negative, scolding and/or aversives. If
the anxious dog stays quiet for 60 seconds, realize this is an
accomplishment. You can, without fanfare, release him from the crate
and gently praise him. Then continue helping help increase his quiet
times from there.
* Stay calm yourself. Do not scold the dog; that only makes your
dog more anxious.
* Realize that if you respond by giving your dog attention and/or
releasing him, even briefly, from the crate while he is engaging in
barking, whining or other undesirable protest behavior, that you are
rewarding that behavior. Do not, however, let this keep you from
taking a dog out of the crate if he needs to go to the bathroom. And
you can also quietly, gently praise the dog when he settles down,
even for a minute...since it helps to reward baby steps toward
better behavior.
* Also, make sure the dog has had enough water. Realize that when
nervous, a dog can quickly get dehydrated. Do not deprive your dog
of the water he needs.
* After the pup quiets down, keep him in the crate for about ten
minutes. Do not praise him immediately after release, or else you
could unintentionally reinforce the idea that the crate is a bad
place to be. After some 30 minutes have passed, repeat the exercise.
Help your dog extend his calm time in the crate to 30 minutes.
Gradually extend the duration of time you are absent periods so that
you can eventually leave the dog alone in the crate for several
hours.
More tips for converting crate-hating dogs, from canine
behaviorist Cinimon Clark:
* Never shove the dog into the crate. Yes, be firm and be a good
leader, but shoving and pushing a scared or anxious dog will not
help your cause. Instead....
* Feed the dog only in the crate. Create the association: all
good things happen in the crate. Begin by placing the food bowl near
the front door of the crate, gradually moving the bowl a little
further back day by day as the dog gains confidence. Push the bowl
back only as far as you can without the dog expressing anxiety. Keep
the crate door open at this stage.
When the dog is comfortable eating in the crate, start shutting
the crate door as he eats. Open the door when he finishes eating.
Being careful not to advance too quickly, begin leaving the door
shut a minute or so after he has eaten. Don't extend the confinement
period too quickly or your dog will feel anxious, which is a setback
in the training process.
* Take the dog's favorite plaything and give it to him only when
he is inside the crate. Put it out of sight at other times, taking
it out only when it's time to use the crate. Eventually, most dogs
will come to regard the cue of the favorite toy and/or food treat as
the cue to trot into the crate. Cinimon uses sterilized,
non-splintering marrow bones for her dogs. Such bones can be stuffed
with treats. You can do the same with hard rubber Kong toys; fill
them with kibble or treats, smear the insides with peanut butter or
cottage cheese, etc. to create an enjoyable, long-lasting
preoccupation for your dog.
* "I also use ?Buggs Bunny' psychology." says Cinimon. "Do you
remember when Buggs said, ?Oh no you're not!' and another character
would say, ?Oh yes I am!'? It's basically reverse psychology. I'll
make a game of the crate. I'll tell the dogs to ?get in there!' then
tell them to ?get outta there!' Soon, they're running in and out,
with big smiles on their faces. Use treats, it works wonders!"
* Put the dog in the crate for reasons other than when you have
to leave. This will help the dog learn to enjoy or at least tolerate
her crate. Says Cinimon: "I put my guys in for every kind of goodie
they get, other than treats they receive while training." Choose
goodies that appeal most to your individual dog. For some dogs, it's
biscuits. For others, it's pieces of healthy veggies or a few
spoonfuls of pumpkin mash. Have faith: your dog can learn to love
the crate.
More tips:
* Gradually increase the dog's freedom as you teach the dog house
manners and acclimate him to being alone.
* Be sure you have given your dog enough exercise and playtime
before confining her in the crate. Ideally, she should be somewhat
tuckered out and ready to take a nap. If you don't give your dog
sufficient exercise, it is likely she will rebel against the
confinement.
* Metal crate floor pans typically rattle -- which can, in turn,
rattle your dog. The solution: slip a towel, eggshell mattress-type
foam or a thick piece of cardboard beneath the floor pan.
* If the puppy chews up the bedding, remove it and any pieces so
that the pup cannot choke.
* Don't store a leash inside the crate, or else the dog can get
caught up in or choke on the leash.
* While you really do want to avoid forcing a dog into a crate,
if you absolutely must put a dog in a crate against his will, and
luring with fantastic treats fails, try to help the dog back in,
backside first, instead of shoving in head first. If there's a
chance the dog may try to bite you, it might be best to use a muzzle
or gently bind his jaws during the process with a strip of cloth or
leash. In any case, do not verbally cajole the dog, since it is best
to stay calm and quiet. As you can see, it is so much better to take
the time to teach a dog to accept going into a crate.
* Avoid use of plastic water bowls in a crate, since an anxious
or chew-happy dog can chew off pieces of the bowl. Use metal bowls
instead.
Using crates as housetraining aids:
* Crate training takes advantage of the natural canine instinct
not to mess where one sleeps.
* This technique is good for housetraining puppies as well as
retraining many more mature dogs.
* However, in either case, crating is a temporary measure, and
not a substitute for teaching the dog and allowing the dog time to
learn good behavior.
* And remember, pups can hold their urine only a couple of hours,
and even mature dogs cannot be expected to hold their urine for
hours on end. So it's unfair -- and cruel -- to leave a dog crated
for too many hours. In addition, making a dog keeping a dog from
relieving himself when necessary can lead to urinary infections and
other health problems.
Housetraining hints in conjunction with crate-training:
You'll find more detailed, helpful guidance in the resources
listed at the end of this tip sheet.
* Here's a snapshot description of the tethering approach: when
you cannot supervise your new pup, keep her inside the crate.
Whenever she is outside the crate, she is either being held by you
or another responsible family member, or you put her leash on and
keep the leash tethered to yourself or another responsible person.
That way, you will always know when she is getting anxious, which
typically is a sign that she has to eliminate.
* At the first sign of restlessness, take her outside to potty.
That way, she will quickly learn that the place to potty is outside,
not inside. If you can maintain this routine overnight, you will be
able to housetrain your pup within just a few days!
In other words, a little upfront investment in super-close
supervision will save you hours of housetraining time and
drastically cut the number of accidents that any pup or dog has
during the house/potty-training stage.
* Be sure to keep a schedule starting from the beginning of your
relationship with a dog or puppy. Feed your puppy three times a day,
gradually reducing to twice a day, at the same times each day.
Instead of "free feeding," put the bowl down, encourage the pup to
eat, and after 15 minutes or so, take up the bowl...even if the pup
didn't finish the food. The pup will soon get the message to eat
when her person offers the opportunity. More frequently, give her
opportunities to drink. You can keep the water bowl down at all
times, or provide it several times a day (don't forget...since pups
and dogs need water just as humans do).
Particularly with puppies, you will need to take your dog outside
within 15 minutes or so of eating and drinking.
Canines thrive on routine, so do your best to keep to the routine
and your pup will naturally learn to trust and count on you.
* The first thing to do whenever you release your pup or dog from
the crate is to take her outside to relieve herself.
* Stay outside with your pup in the yard, so that you will be
able to take the opportunity to praise her verbally and with petting
when she eliminates. Try to encourage use of the same potty spot at
the beginning. These approaches will help the pup learn when and
where to go...and that she can depend on you, her leader, to take
her out before she feels the urgency to urinate or defecate. If your
dog does not eliminate right away, realize that this is not unusual.
Linger outside, or go for a walk, for 20 minutes.
* Some canine experts recommend limiting water access in the
evening before bedtime, particularly for pups during the
housetraining phase. You can give your pup a little bit of water
before bedtime. A smart tip: give some ice chips instead. This will
occupy and satisfy the pup. Before bedtime, be sure to take the pup
or dog back outside for up to 20 minutes so that she can relieve
herself and get a bit of exercise, which will help her more easily
settle down to sleep through the night.
* A reminder: puppies typically cannot hold their bladder through
the night any more than human babies can. Be prepared to take your
pup outside in the middle of the night for a few nights. This has
many advantages over just letting the puppy piddle in his crate or
on her bedding. Not only will you have fewer accidents to clean up,
but more importantly, your pup will become housetrained much faster.
Really.
* Avoid feeding snacks between meals, and no table scraps. Use
plain treats formulated for puppies. Do, however, reserve a number
of little tidbit treats (plain, healthy bits of biscuits or pasta or
kibble pieces) to use for supplementing verbal praise throughout the
day whenever the pup engages in behavior that you want to reinforce.
Accidents in the crate:
Never scold or punish a dog of any age for having accidents in
the crate, or elsewhere in the house. Calmly remove your dog from
the room, then clean the crate with a cleaner formulated
specifically for cleaning and removing odor from pet messes. Do not
use ammonia, since ammonia smells similar to urine to pets, and your
dog may feel compelled to mark over that smell.
If the dog starts having accidents in crate, here are possible
reasons:
* You might be confining your dog too long. Address the excessive
confinement periods: enlist a trusted acquaintance or pet sitter to
take your dog outside during your workday.
* You are not giving the dog sufficient opportunity to relieve
himself before crating him. See the guidance elsewhere in this tip
sheet.
* The dog's diet does not provide adequate nutrition, or the diet
is too fatty.
* The dog might have a bladder infection, a prostate condition,
or parasites, requiring treatment from your vet.
* Past experiences might also be the problem. For example, some
pet shop puppies become used to sitting and sleeping near their
urine/fecal matter during their formative weeks. Puppy mill and pet
shop pups typically are much harder to housebreak due to this
reason. Female dogs formerly used for breeding in puppy mills are
kept in tiny cages, and thus become used to being surrounded by
waste. And some young as well as older dogs came from environments
in which they were penned in or chained in restrictive spaces, and
thus forced to remain in contact with their own waste. These dogs
can be retrained; what they need most are caring new owners.
* The dog might suffer from true separation anxiety. The
separation-anxious dog can suffer digestive upset and lose bladder
and bowel control.
* As in any aspect of teaching and training your dog, keep and
demonstrate a positive attitude.
More words of wisdom:
* Before you can attempt to modify a dog's behavior, advises
canine behavior expert and author Sarah Wilson, make sure that you
are not creating the problem. If you don't give the dog what he
needs -- a proper diet, plenty of exercise and daily interaction --
or if you give him more of something than he can handle -- crate him
for long hours, constantly excite him or frighten him frequently --
he will not be able to give you his best.
* Some dogs figure out how to push out the crate pans through the
bottom of the crate. So check the latch that is intended to keep the
pan in place; it's likely that you'll need to reinforce the closure.
Putting a crate liner and bedding that covers the entire bottom of
the crate will help too.
* Some folks cover their puppies' crates with a sheet or blanket,
particularly at night, to help the pup relax and get needed sleep.
However, keep watch, as some dogs will get anxious and pull the
material into the crate.
* Don't let anyone tease or otherwise bother your dog when she is
in the crate. Be aware that even seemingly docile children are
capable of accidentally or purposely teasing dogs. Some children,
and some adults, feel compelled to stick fingers through crate wires
and doors. Therefore, you must take responsibility for teaching your
children and other family members proper behavior around dogs. And
you must keep visitors to your home from bothering your dog. Last
but not least, never leave children alone with your dog, even if she
is confined in a crate. Remember, your dog can't tell you want goes
on when you're not looking...and some folks (young and old) can take
advantage of that fact.
Alternatives to using a crate:
* You can establish a comfortable, puppy-proof room in a
family-oriented part of your home. Ideally, this space should have a
durable, easy to clean floor and minimal woodwork/trim that might
look like something appealing to chew.
* You can also use pens and/or baby gates to create a space for
your puppy that allows some more freedom of movement. You can set up
a crate in this space, leaving the door open. Choose an area by the
crate for water and food. Place newspaper in another area apart from
this living/sleeping area. Use mesh/wire enclosures so that your pup
can see beyond his "room" and observe family activity.
Other Resources
Crate training:
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/cratetraining.htm
http://dogmanners.com/crate.html
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/crate1.html
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/crate2.html
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html
http://www.perfectpaws.com/crt.html
Books with good guidance on crate use:
Crate Training Your Dog by Pat Storer. Make crate training
a simpler, better experience with this wise advice on choosing the
right crate, step-by-step instructions for using crates, dealing
with crate-related behavior problems, and how to keep a positive,
loving attitude while being firm and consistent with your dog.
Way to Go! How to Housetrain a Dog of Any Age by Karen
London and Patricia McConnell. A clear, concise and economical
booklet to use with dogs of any age and breed.
I'll Be Home Soon! by Patricia McConnell. If you worry
about leaving your dog home alone, here's step-by-step guidance to
prevent and treat separation anxiety, a condition in which dogs
panic at your departure and while you're away. Called a tremendous
resource, this book can help you raise a dog with good house
manners. It will take some work, but you can transform your dog's
behavior.
Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog by
Pat Miller. Learn how dogs think and learn ... keys to
housetraining, basic training, preventing problems and managing your
dog's behavior ... and how to use positive, fun techniques such as
clicker training to make the behaviors you want more rewarding than
the behaviors you don't want.
Adoptable Dog: Teaching Your Adopted Pet to Obey, Trust and
Love You by John Ross and Barbara McKinney. Tips to help your
pre-owned dog get along with children and older adults and other
pets...retraining approaches to stop excessive barking, separation
anxiety, housebreaking problems and fear biting.
Second-Hand Dog: How To Turn Yours Into A First Rate Pet
by Carol Lea Benjamin. Great, straight-talk about the care,
training, and rehabilitation of abandoned dogs, focusing on their
special problems and needs. For adults as well younger readers.
Your Outta Control Adopted Dog by Eve Adamson. Clear,
step-by-step instructions on how to deal with common problems that
make living with your adopted dog a challenge, such as
housetraining, separation anxiety, hyperactivity, shyness and
fearful behaviors, aggression, barking, chewing and digging. Gives
you the tools to turn your pet into a trusted friend.
MetroDog: The Essential Guide to Raising Your Dog in the City
by Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson. These dog experts have adapted
proven dog-rearing techniques to city living. How to keep a puppy
and neighbors happy while you're away from your apartment or
condo...how to teach your dog good city manners and more.
Housetraining Guides and Articles:
Housetraining and Helping a New Dog Adjust to a New Home:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Housetraining.php
http://www.sdhumane.org/petownerhelp/NBChousetraining.cfm
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=1089
http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/lib-SpecTrain.htm#house
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/hsetrain.html
http://www.inch.com/~dogs/housebreaking.html
http://www.dogownersdigest.com/news/library/puppy-potty-training.shtml
Housebreaking Older Dogs:
http://www.cuhumane.org/topics/hseold.html
http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/feb97.html
Housebreaking Dogs who Lived Outdoors:
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=1070
Marking and Inappropriate Indoor Elimination:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Marking.php
Teach Your Dog to Alert You When Having to Potty:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_TeachingToRingYou.php
Teaching Potty On Command:
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_PottyOnCommand.php
Robin's Dog Tips is a free feature providing tips and guidance on
dog behavior, health, management, safety, humane treatment and other
issues of interest to dog folks. For other Dog Tips, see the index
at
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/dog_tips.html
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Permission granted for use for nonprofit educational purposes only.
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